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Rolex SA Acquires Luxury Retailer Bucherer AG, Shaking up the Retail Landscape

Rolex SA, the largest Swiss watch brand, has announced its acquisition of luxury retailer Bucherer AG, marking a significant shift in its retail strategy. Bucherer, boasting more than 100 stores worldwide, will retain its operational independence and continue selling other watch brands. While the financial details remain undisclosed, this acquisition was a decision influenced by the mutual history between these two private Swiss firms.

Direct-to-Consumer Sales Strategy?

Traditionally, Rolex has majorly relied on “official Rolex authorized dealers” to distribute its watches. Presently, there exists only one store worldwide that is wholly owned and managed by Rolex, located in Geneva. This acquisition, however, could be a strategic move towards controlling its retail sales. Though the company remains committed to its authorized dealers, the purchase grants Rolex more oversight on both new and pre-owned watch sales. Jon Cox, the head of Swiss equities at Kepler Cheuvreux, provided insight into the implications this could have on listed retailers, specifically pointing out the Watches of Switzerland Group in the UK and The Hour Glass in Singapore. He mentioned, “At first glance, this is shocking for all of the other Rolex official dealers.” However, the shared history between Rolex and the Bucherer family could soften the impact on other retailers.

Supply and Demand Dynamics

  • Rolex produces over 1 million timepieces annually.
  • They generate over 9 billion Swiss francs ($10.2 billion) in yearly sales.
  • Popular models like the Daytona, GMT, and Submariner dive watch often witness demand that surpasses supply.
  • Customers often face prolonged wait periods, sometimes lasting several months or even years, to obtain these sought-after models.

Changing Strategies and Market Implications

Rolex’s move is seen by many as a potential game-changer, especially as the brand looks to dominate the second-hand watch market. As per a report, Rolex watches lead the second-hand market, representing a larger share of watches bought and sold by value than any competing brand. Oliver Mueller, head of Switzerland’s LuxeConsult, emphasized how increasing the presence of Rolex and its sister brand, Tudor, in retail stores could reshape the industry.

However, Watches of Switzerland, a significant retailer, faced a sudden drop in shares after this acquisition news, revealing potential investor concerns about Rolex’s retail aspirations. Despite these concerns and market speculations, Rolex insists on Bucherer maintaining its independent stature.

Financial Implications and Future Speculations

The acquisition has raised speculations about Rolex’s future plans in the direct-to-consumer market. After the share price drop on Friday, Watches of Switzerland’s valuation stood at around 1.6 billion pounds, a potential acquisition target for Rolex. If Rolex does venture deeper into direct selling, it might have broader implications for the watch retail market in the long run.


As Rolex continues its trajectory towards gaining more control over its retailing, the luxury watch industry witnesses a period of change and adaptation. Whether Rolex’s new strategy will pay off and how it will affect other retailers remains to be seen. As for now, the watch world waits with bated breath.

For more information on the recent changes in the luxury watch retail market and deeper insights, visit Refinitiv, a trusted source for financial data.

Ashley Waithira
Ashley excels in different creative tasks and collaborates well with teams. She studied communications, allowing her to turn ideas into engaging stories for brands using innovative methods and data. As a young individual, she's excellent with social media. Ashley is dedicated, focuses on the details, and keeps things organized. She also loves Beyoncé.